Mama Knows Best
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Dining Bisnow (DC)

Mama Knows Best

Don't miss Melissa Etheridge on Nov. 18 and Sadie and the Hotheads featuring Elizabeth McGovern of Downton Abbey on Dec. 4. Both shows at Lincoln Theatre. Tickets on sale now. Click here.

Chef/Owner Aulie Bunyarataphan has opened a few Thai ventures, but Mama Rouge is close to her heart. That's because it's named after the grandmother who raised her and because the menu is injected with French flavor.

“You should feel like you're in an Asian restaurant in Paris,” Aulie tells us. She has loved all things French for as long as she can remember. Her curries build layers of flavor using French technique, and you'll also find fun hybrids like an irresistible brisket banh mi on a buttery croissant. What you won't find on the menu are bloated Georgetown prices. That tasty banh mi weighs in at $9. Find Mama Rouge in the former Bangkok Joe's space on the Georgetown Waterfront

RMA (App5) DINE

Mario Batali: Local is the New Luxury

DC was treated to a visit by Mario Batali Sunday. Unfortunately, it wasn't to open a restaurant (yet!), but he did have some strong words about how DC food has caught up to New York. Mario (right) was in town celebrating his new cookbook America Farm to Table with co-author Jim Webster of the Washington Post (center). They participated in a moderated Q & A session over lunch at Zaytinya along with New Morning Farm's Jim Crawford (left). The biggest takeaway? “Luxury isn't about expensive food—it's about using ingredients that can't be found anywhere else,” he tells us. “Local is the gold standard.”

Mario also prefers food that has a story behind it, like his recipe for Ajo Blanco. The chilled soup is an almond-based cousin of Spanish gazpacho. Its origin is the North African influence in the south of Spain. “When you taste a dish that has history, eating becomes an intellectual experience,” Mario says. At the lunch, the menu was comprised of Zaytinya Chef Michael Costa's greatest hits combined with a few bites from Mario like his Swiss chard spanakopita (pictured). The $95 meal included a signed copy of the cookbook and perhaps a new perspective on eating local.

Bisnow (Shark) REC
American Summits (B5G1F-bottle) DINE
Toro Toro (Open) DINE

Where to Find Frank Ruta

Good news for those already missing Frank Ruta's cooking. The chef found a fun gig one Metro stop away from Cleveland Park's Palena, which closed in April. Every Thursday the chef teams up with Mark Furstenberg and his team at Bread Furst in Van Ness for a four-course meal served family style. “Every dish is a collaboration,” Mark tells us. We snapped them working together in the kitchen during the “Bread Feast” launch dinner on Oct. 23.

Getting in is simple. Check the Bread Furst website for the week's menu. If it strikes your fancy, purchase tickets for $85 per person. The price includes food, tax and gratuity; beer, wine and cocktails are available for purchase. A favorite course from the dinner was the Autumn Jewel Box: Palladin bread bowls filled with marinated grilled peppers and mushrooms, topped with a poached Amish farm egg and tomato sauce (pictured). The first dinner drew the Washington Post food team, other press, and diners in the know


Kyoo-ed In

Feast your eyes on the dish that got Kyoo Eom the exec chef job at Poste Moderne Brasserie: asparagus wrapped halibut with pomme rosti, sauce Ventienne, and trout caviar. It's a real looker, and just one example of the refined technique Kyoo (pronounced like the letter Q) brings with him. He's amped up several of Poste's signature dishes too—like adding tender, four-hour braised short rib to French onion soup.

Poste scored Kyoo from 2941 Restaurant where he spent five years. He's also worked at Daniel Boulud's DB Bistro Moderne and Café Boulud, where he trained under Chef Andrew Carmellini. But the South Korean native hasn't always been in the kitchen; he served in Korea's military before moving to America to pursue culinary school.

Bisnow (RawSpace-Pairs) REC
Metro Cook (Nov9-gtp) DINE
Tarara (Black) DINE

Colleen Conrad's Back at Pearl Dive

Last time Colleen Conrad cooked in the Pearl Dive Oyster Palace kitchen, she was a junior sous chef. Now she's back leading the charge as executive chef. Spending the past year opening Takoma Park's Republic with head chef Danny Wells was invaluable, she tells us. “The biggest lesson is that you don't know anything when it comes to opening a restaurant. I wouldn't be able to come in and change up the menu [at Pearl Dive] without having gone through the past year with Danny.” Colleen's focus is on letting local, seasonal ingredients shine. “This crowd doesn't want to read a menu with words they don't understand,” Colleen says. One example of simple done right is her whole wood grilled Bradford Bay Farms black bass.


More Than Good Looks

Urbana got a lot of love after its renovation that made the bar the star. But there's more to the sexy design refresh, including a new menu that leans on fish and pasta. This whole dorade is a new dish from Executive Chef Ethan McKee. It's adorned with lemon-blasted rainbow chard, cipollini onions, fennel purée, and hazelnut brown butter. He also added a briny squid ink bucatini with all the jewels of the sea. Like Ethan's pasta? You can now swing by Urbana on your way home to pick up perfectly dried pasta to bring home to impress someone for $6.

Ethan returned from an inspiring trip to Italy this week, where he tells us he pretty much bathed in white truffles. He also stopped at salumi and cheese shops—he's pictured here with wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano in, where else, Parma! Another enlightening stop was the Slow Food USA “Salone del Gusto” festival in Turin, where he saw demos by three star Michelin chefs. “Everything there is so simple; we overcomplicate things here,” he tells us.

Cardinal (Commonwealth) DINE

BBQ Options Continue to Grow

Earlier this year we told you about Fat Pete's Barbecue. Before that, DCity Smokehouse came onto the scene. The latest to get into the smoke-kissed meat game is Willie's Brew and Que in the Navy Yard. It's within eyesight of Nationals Park, which will be perfect for next season. The eclectic menu from Chef Rock Harper (a Hell's Kitchen winner) includes pulled pork, Korean chicken wings, and Jamaican jerked chicken. We noshed on a pulled pork platter that read high on the moisture meter—always a good sign. They currently serve lunch and dinner, with brunch likely to follow.


Email Dining Editor Laura Hayes
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