Table Pulls Off A Rare Feat

Many restaurants try to re-create the feel of being in someone's home, but few manage to pull it off as successfully as Chef Frederik de Pue's new restaurant Table at 9th and Nin Shaw. Chef gave us a tour, one week into his journey.

The small, open kitchen is lined with shelves stacked with dishes and pots, just like you like to pretend you do at home. Chef de Pue runs a tight ship with his small staff, and guests seated at the "Chef's Table" (two stools on either side of the kitchen counter) get a full view of the show. They aren't the only ones; the low bench running along the opposite wall has a clear view of the kitchen, too, and it's lined with cushy throw pillows you'd expect to find in a chic urban home. Upstairs you'll find rustic bench-style dining tables, also en vogue in home decor.

One potential problem: concrete floors and exposed brick like Table's lend a modern feel, but are also notorious for amplifying sound. Table's designers went to great lengths to keep the noise level at bay, lining the ceiling with soundproofing panels that are masked by suspended planks of wood reclaimed from a home in Georgetown. Even the lampshades contribute to the soundproofing, cleverly crafted from cardboard to help dampen the noise.

The restaurant has no bar, as Chef de Pue (left, with Chef de Cuisine Patrick Robinson)wants the focus to be on the dining experience. But you probably won't even miss it: the extensive wine and beer list takes up four pages of the seven-page menu.Table is already extremely popular with the neighborhood; just 10 days after opening, a number of customers have returned for their third and even fourth visits, eager to see what's new on the ever-evolving, seasonal menu. Chef de Pue employsclassic and modern techniques that allow his fresh ingredients to shine. They don't take reservations, so get there early or plan to grab a drink at a nearby bar while you wait.